These are images taken during a test shoot a few weeks ago.  I can’t wait to share the whole series. 

Ceviche is not raw seafood. While heat is not used to cook the fish, the acid in the citrus marinade denatures the protein — which is what a flame will do. In the most basic terms, heat or acid are both achieving the same thing: changing the protein from its raw state.

Now, even though the seafood in ceviche is no longer raw, it should be eaten the day it is made, preferably within minutes. Why? Acid will keep working away, gnawing at the flesh like an invisible monster. Your fish or shrimp will become mushy. Does this sound too precious? It isn’t, and actually, it should be more enticing because of how quickly it can be prepared.

To get started, buy your seafood at a trustworthy fishmonger (as you should always do). I like to use fish like snapper and halibut, cut into small pieces, as well as scallops, and shrimp (as photographed).

For your marinade, start with this one and adjust to taste. 

For the length of time you should marinate: all seafood will be different in texture, and also, the size and thickness of the pieces will vary.  Start with 15 minutes and take a peek: the flesh should be opaque. Don’t go past 1 hour, to avoid blown out ceviche.

SHRIMP CEVICHE

Serves 2

1/2 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
Juice of 1 orange
1/2 teaspoon finely grated lime zest
Juice of 4 limes
1/4 red onion, finely chopped (about 1/4 cup)
1 small garlic clove, minced
1/2 serrano chile, ribs and seeds removed, minced (optional)
1/2 cup cilantro leaves, chopped
1 tablespoon ketchup
2 teaspoons Jugo Maggi or Worcestershire sauce
Hot sauce, to taste
1/2 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Combine all of the ingredients except the shrimp, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl. Taste and adjust seasonings. Rinse the shrimp and pat them thoroughly dry. Leave them whole or cut them into 1/2-inch pieces. Season the shrimp with salt and pepper and toss into the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for 15 minutes. If the shrimp is not opaque, allow to marinate for an additional 5 minutes. Serve immediately with saltine crackers.

I developed this recipe a few years ago when I was a contributor at Serious Eats. It’s a bit of a chore, but really worth it—the peanut brittle in between the layers is genius, if I do say so myself. I like banana desserts of all sorts, but when it’s mostly custard and bananas (both soft), I want a little extra textural contrast—more than the crust contributes. And of course, there’s booze, because, really, it’s dessert—why try to curb yourself now?

BOURBON & BRITTLE BANANA CREAM PIE

11 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 11 pieces 1 cup dry-roasted peanuts 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1/2 cup light corn syrup 1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda 3/4 teaspoon salt 1 (12-ounce) box Nilla Wafer cookies, broken into pieces 3/4 cup light brown sugar 3 cups milk 1/3 cup cornstarch 3 large egg yolks 3 tablespoons bourbon 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 6 large bananas, ripe but firm 1 tablespoon orange juice 

 Line large baking sheet with parchment paper. Butter parchment with 1 tablespoon butter. 

 Stir peanuts, granulated sugar, and corn syrup in heavy-bottomed medium-sized saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring, until sugar dissolves, 2 to 3 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high and boil, stirring frequently, until mixture is thick and deep amber and temperature reads 295°F on candy thermometer, 8 to 12 minutes. 

 Remove from heat and immediately stir in baking soda and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Pour mixture onto prepared baking sheet and spread into even layer (roughly, a 12- by 8-inch rectangle) with wooden spoon. 

Let brittle cool and harden on sheet, 30 to 45 minutes. When cool, using a meat mallet, break brittle into small pieces and reserve.

Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Melt 8 tablespoons butter. Pulse Nilla Wafer pieces in food processor until they become fine crumbs. Add 1/4 cup light brown sugar and 1/4 teaspoon salt and pulse to combine. Add melted butter and pulse again to combine. Press onto bottom and up sides of springform pan, leaving about 1/2 inch from top of pan. Bake crust until golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer to cooling rack and cool completely. 

 Meanwhile, bring milk to boil in small saucepan or microwave. In large heavy-bottomed saucepan whisk remaining 1/2 cup light brown sugar, cornstarch, egg yolks, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. While vigorously whisking, add 1/4 cup boiling milk, then, add remaining milk in a slow steady stream, all the while whisking. Bring mixture to boil over medium heat, whisking constantly; mixture will thicken to the consistency of pudding. Continue to boil for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in remaining 2 tablespoons butter, bourbon, and vanilla extract. Transfer custard to large bowl. Press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the custard’s surface and refrigerate until cold. Alternatively, place bowl in an ice bath and stir custard until completely cooled. 

 To assemble, slice bananas diagonally into thin slices (about 1/4 inch thick). Spread half of custard over bottom of prepared crust. Top custard with half of brittle pieces then layer with half of sliced bananas, arranging them in a circular pattern. With pastry brush, brush bananas with orange juice. Top bananas with remaining custard, then top custard with remaining bananas. Brush bananas with remaining orange juice, then sprinkle with remaining brittle. Refrigerate 30 to 60 minutes and serve.